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Wednesday, January 1, 2020

Make meals a thing - Albany Times Union

My family didn't have a "thing." You know what I mean, the kind of thing that you see pictures of other families doing on Facebook. They're all smiling and laughing as they climb yet another high peak. They all love Broadway shows. Or going to art museums.

But my family, not so much. Long ago, we had a thing. We used to ski together, but then I became terrified of falling and so I don't ski anymore. There was a time that we hiked together but someone (no names!) always ended up crying. All of us, except one, loves to play cards. And our musical tastes range from 1980s hairbands to country music and rap. So, concerts? Nope.

Once I decided that we should have a thing, it became harder to find. I started to feel desperate in my search for something that would bring us together. What if we all trained for and ran a marathon? That lasted through just one training session before people starting dropping out. I struck out with every idea: crafting, yoga, birding. No, no and definitely not.

And then it hit me. We did have a thing, and it was there all along. Yup, we all like to eat. You might be thinking that eating isn't really a thing, that everyone eats and it doesn't count. But when that's all you've got, when there's only exactly one thing that a family of five can do together and enjoy it, well, that becomes the thing. And don't get me wrong, it isn't cooking together (we used to do that too). It's only eating together. We all like Thai and Indian food, pizza, pasta, salads and spicy tacos. On flavorful, bountiful plates of food, we are united. Eating food is our thing.

And since it is our thing, it only makes sense that there's a lot of time and care put into planning and preparing the food we eat. We do all like to eat, but we have vegetarians and meat eaters alike so sometimes the meal is vegetable-centered, and other times it's meat centered with plenty of vegetables on the side. What follows are a couple of our all-time favorite recipes, foods that fit right in with what is our thing.

Egg rolls are fun to make and so good to eat. The key to good egg rolls is creating a flavorful filling, and this one's got lots of crunchy vegetables, a bit of curry spice and basil and lime, for bright and fresh flavor. Cook the vegetables long enough so that they are crisp-tender (meaning not soggy but cooked enough to not be hard). This is easiest to achieve by cutting the veggies to the same size, so they cook evenly. And be sure to cut the peppers, onion and carrots into thin strips and not chopped squares, as they won't roll up in the wrapper. I always think of egg rolls as being super greasy and not very healthy, but these are cooked in only a small amount of oil and drained well. They're also packed with veggies. So while not exactly what you'd call health food, they aren't on the junk food list, either. Plus, these egg rolls are excellent lunch box ingredients. If you're anything like me, something other than the same old salad or sandwich is a welcome change at lunchtime. The peanut dipping sauce is made from finely ground peanuts with a hint of soy, sugar and chile. After you make the sauce, taste it and make it your own by adding more, a little bit at a time, of the salty, sweet or spicy ingredients.

The salad here is typical of what I make during the winter months. It's not the ideal salad-making season (no farmstand tomatoes or cucumbers from the garden) but I cannot go without my beloved salads until summer brings us local vegetables again. Instead, I buy whatever lettuce I can find (there are some good hydroponic brands in the supermarket) and toss it with cheese and fried onions and canned beans or vegetables, olives and whatever else I can scrounge up. This salad has crispy artichoke hearts and whatever cooked vegetables you have on hand, along with lemony Parmesan dressing. It all goes well with the peppery taste of arugula, but you can safely use any salad green and it'll be good. This salad is hearty enough to be a light dinner, or serve it with Italian sausage or roasted chicken for a bigger appetite.

Next up is a recipe for ropa vieja. Ropa vieja is cuban and means "old clothes" in Spanish. I always think this name is as much for the look of the dish when it's finished (because it's kind of messy and resembles a pile of old clothes) as a statement about how comfortable and homey it is to eat. Traditionally, the recipe calls for flank steak but I always use chuck roast for its tenderness. Sear the pieces of meat, then cook the aromatics, add the meat back in and let 'er cook for a good, long, time. You'll have pieces of meat that fall apart and are soaked with rich, flavorful sauce. You can serve ropa with tortillas, rice and beans (that's how the Cubans do it) or even egg noodles. This here is good eating on a cold, snowy Sunday. There are a few raisins in this dish, which lend a sweet note to balance the salt and spice. When my kids were younger, they were fussy about raisins with their meat, so I would either chop them to be small or leave out completely. It'll taste delicious either way.

I haven't given up hope that my husband, kids and I will find a common interest. Maybe we'll become masters at Bocce ball. Or crochet. Or even ballroom dancing! Most likely, we'll keep eating egg rolls and pots of soup, cakes and french fries. We've gotten pretty good at it. So good, in fact, that it's become our thing. If you are like me and worry about family bonding and finding wholesome activities that everyone will enjoy, stop looking. Kick back with your kids and a plate of ropa vieja, a pan of brownies or even a crispy salad and there, that's where you'll find your thing.

Caroline Barrett is a freelance writer who lives in Delmar. Reach her at cvbarrett@verizon.net. Read her blog at blog.timesunion.com/tablefor5.

Curry Basil Egg Rolls with Spicy Peanut Dipping Sauce

Makes 12 rolls

2 tablespoons canola oil

3 green onions, tops trimmed and cut into 3-inch lengths

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 tablespoon good quality curry powder

1/2 head nappa cabbage, trimmed and sliced thin

2 carrots, peeled and julienned

1/2 red pepper, cored and julienned

1 cup bean sprouts

1/2 cup fresh basil, julienned

Juice of ½ lime

Egg roll wrappers

Water, for sealing

Canola oil, for frying

Curry Basil Egg Rolls with Spicy Peanut Dipping Sauce

Makes 12 rolls

2 tablespoons canola oil

3 green onions, tops trimmed and cut into 3-inch lengths

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 tablespoon good quality curry powder

½ head nappa cabbage, trimmed and sliced thin

2 carrots, peeled and julienned

½ red pepper, cored and julienned

1 cup bean sprouts

½ cup fresh basil, julienned

Juice of ½ lime

Egg roll wrappers

Water, for sealing

Canola oil, for frying

Spicy Peanut Dipping Sauce (recipe follows)

Slice the onion sections lengthwise into thin strips. Heat the canola oil in a wok or large frying pan set over medium heat. Cook the onions for a minute or two, then add the salt and curry powder and cook for about 30 seconds, stirring. Add the cabbage, carrots and red pepper and stir well to mix so the curry oil coats all of the vegetables. Cook, stirring, for five minutes. Turn the heat off and stir in the bean sprouts, basil and lime juice. Taste and add a pinch more salt, if you like. Allow to cool completely.

To assemble an egg roll, place a wrapper on a work surface with a corner pointing at you. Pile 1/3 cup filling into the center of the wrapper. Bring the corner closest to you up and over the filling, then fold in the sides. Roll from the bottom up, and use a little water to seal the edge. Repeat with the remaining wrappers and keep the finished rolls under a towel until ready to fry. Be careful to keep space between the wrappers, as they will stick to each other.

Pour ¼-inch of oil in a frying pan and set over medium heat. When the oil is hot (it will ripple), carefully add the egg rolls, working batches so the pan doesn't crowd. Turn the rolls after a minute or two, and brown on all sides. Place on paper towels to drain. Keep warm in the oven set at 190 degrees. Serve hot with the dipping sauce.

Spicy Peanut Dipping Sauce

Makes about 1 cup

1 cup roasted unsalted peanuts

2 tablespoons sambal oelek (see note)

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon packed brown sugar

1 tablespoon rice vinegar

½ cup boiling water

In the bowl of a food processor, pulse the peanuts until very finely chopped. Add the sambal, soy sauce, sugar and vinegar and puree again. With the motor running, pour in the boiling water and allow to process for another 30 seconds or so, until smooth and creamy. Stop the processor, scrape the bowl down, and puree again to combine all. Can be made ahead. Keeps refrigerated for one week.

Note: Sambal oelek is a sauce made from chiles and can easily be found in the Asian/international section of the grocery.

Ropa Vieja

Serves 6

2½ pounds chuck roast, cut into 3-inch strips

Salt and pepper

Olive oil

1 medium white onion, peeled and chopped

1 bell pepper, seeded and chopped

4 fat garlic cloves, peeled and chopped fine

1 rounded tablespoon cumin

1 rounded tablespoon smoked paprika

1 cup red wine

1 14-ounce can fire-roasted tomatoes

1 bay leaf

3 cups broth (chicken or beef)

½ cup golden raisins

¼ cup capers, drained

2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

1 tablespoon Mexican oregano

Cooked rice

½ cup pitted green olives

Fresh cilantro

Season the beef generously with salt and pepper. Set a Dutch oven over medium heat and add a swirl of olive oil. Sear the beef until browned on all sides (do this in batches). Keep the beef on a plate and set aside.

Add the onion and pepper and cook until very soft, then stir in the garlic. Cook for a minute or so, then add the spices. Pour in the wine and let simmer for a few minutes, until reduced by half. Add the beef back to the pot, along with the tomatoes, bay leaf and chicken broth.

Place the lid on the pot and bring to a gentle simmer. Cook for 2-3 hours, until the beef is very tender. Stir in the raisins, capers, vinegar and oregano. Simmer for a few more minutes, to incorporate the flavors.

Taste and season with salt and pepper. Serve over hot rice with the olives and cilantro.

Fried Artichoke Salad with Lemon Parmesan Dressing

Serves 5

2 cans quartered artichoke hearts

Olive oil

Salt

5 cups arugula

3 cups cooked vegetables (onions, carrots, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower all work well)

Parmesan cheese, for serving

Lemon Parmesan dressing (recipe follows)

Drain and rinse the artichoke hearts well in a colander. Slice in half and place face down on paper towels or a clean kitchen towel to drain. Pour enough olive oil into a large frying pan to generously coat the bottom and place over medium heat. When the oil is hot, carefully place the artichokes in the pan, face down. Cook until golden brown, then use tongs to flip and cook for a few more minutes. Drain on paper towels, cut side down. Do this in batches if necessary, to avoid crowding the pan.

To assemble salad, arrange the greens on a platter, then mound the artichokes in the center. Place the cooked vegetables alongside and sprinkle with the Parmesan cheese. Drizzle a few spoonfuls of the dressing over all and serve the rest on the side.

Lemon Parmesan Dressing

Makes about ½ cup

1/3 cup olive oil

Juice of ½ lemon (about 2 tablespoons)

¼ cup grated parmesan

1 small shallot, peeled and minced

1 teaspoon honey

½ teaspoon kosher salt

Black pepper

Whisk the ingredients together and season with black pepper. Taste and add more salt, if desired. Keeps in a glass jar in the refrigerator for 3 days.

Spicy Peanut Dipping Sauce (recipe follows)

Slice the onion sections lengthwise into thin strips. Heat the canola oil in a wok or large frying pan set over medium heat. Cook the onions for a minute or two, then add the salt and curry powder and cook for about 30 seconds, stirring. Add the cabbage, carrots and red pepper and stir well to mix so the curry oil coats all of the vegetables. Cook, stirring, for five minutes. Turn the heat off and stir in the bean sprouts, basil and lime juice. Taste and add a pinch more salt, if you like. Allow to cool completely.

To assemble an egg roll, place a wrapper on a work surface with a corner pointing at you. Pile 1/3 cup filling into the center of the wrapper. Bring the corner closest to you up and over the filling, then fold in the sides. Roll from the bottom up, and use a little water to seal the edge. Repeat with the remaining wrappers and keep the finished rolls under a towel until ready to fry. Be careful to keep space between the wrappers, as they will stick to each other.

Pour ¼-inch of oil in a frying pan and set over medium heat. When the oil is hot (it will ripple), carefully add the egg rolls, working batches so the pan doesn't crowd. Turn the rolls after a minute or two, and brown on all sides. Place on paper towels to drain. Keep warm in the oven set at 190 degrees. Serve hot with the dipping sauce.

Spicy Peanut Dipping Sauce

Makes about 1 cup

1 cup roasted unsalted peanuts

2 tablespoons sambal oelek (see note)

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon packed brown sugar

1 tablespoon rice vinegar

½ cup boiling water

In the bowl of a food processor, pulse the peanuts until very finely chopped. Add the sambal, soy sauce, sugar and vinegar and puree again. With the motor running, pour in the boiling water and allow to process for another 30 seconds or so, until smooth and creamy. Stop the processor, scrape the bowl down, and puree again to combine all. Can be made ahead. Keeps refrigerated for one week.

Note: Sambal oelek is a sauce made from chiles and can easily be found in the Asian/international section of the grocery.

Fried Artichoke Salad with Lemon Parmesan Dressing

Serves 5

2 cans quartered artichoke hearts

Olive oil

Salt

5 cups arugula

3 cups cooked vegetables (onions, carrots, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower all work well)

Parmesan cheese, for serving

Lemon Parmesan dressing (recipe follows)

Drain and rinse the artichoke hearts well in a colander. Slice in half and place face down on paper towels or a clean kitchen towel to drain. Pour enough olive oil into a large frying pan to generously coat the bottom and place over medium heat. When the oil is hot, carefully place the artichokes in the pan, face down. Cook until golden brown, then use tongs to flip and cook for a few more minutes. Drain on paper towels, cut side down. Do this in batches if necessary, to avoid crowding the pan.

To assemble salad, arrange the greens on a platter, then mound the artichokes in the center. Place the cooked vegetables alongside and sprinkle with the Parmesan cheese. Drizzle a few spoonfuls of the dressing over all and serve the rest on the side.

Lemon Parmesan Dressing

Makes about ½ cup

⅓ cup olive oil

Juice of ½ lemon (about 2 tablespoons)

¼ cup grated parmesan

1 small shallot, peeled and minced

1 teaspoon honey

½ teaspoon kosher salt

Black pepper

Whisk the ingredients together and season with black pepper. Taste and add more salt, if desired. Keeps in a glass jar in the refrigerator for 3 days.

Ropa Vieja

Serves 6

2½ pounds chuck roast, cut into 3-inch strips

Salt and pepper

Olive oil

1 medium white onion, peeled and chopped

1 bell pepper, seeded and chopped

4 fat garlic cloves, peeled and chopped fine

1 rounded tablespoon cumin

1 rounded tablespoon smoked paprika

1 cup red wine

1 14-ounce can fire-roasted tomatoes

1 bay leaf

3 cups broth (chicken or beef)

1/2 cup golden raisins

1/4 cup capers, drained

2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

1 tablespoon Mexican oregano

Cooked rice

1/2 cup pitted green olives

Fresh cilantro

Season the beef generously with salt and pepper. Set a Dutch oven over medium heat and add a swirl of olive oil. Sear the beef until browned on all sides (do this in batches). Keep the beef on a plate and set aside.

Add the onion and pepper and cook until very soft, then stir in the garlic. Cook for a minute or so, then add the spices. Pour in the wine and let simmer for a few minutes, until reduced by half. Add the beef back to the pot, along with the tomatoes, bay leaf and chicken broth.

Place the lid on the pot and bring to a gentle simmer. Cook for 2-3 hours, until the beef is very tender. Stir in the raisins, capers, vinegar and oregano. Simmer for a few more minutes, to incorporate the flavors.

Taste and season with salt and pepper.

Serve over hot rice with the olives and cilantro.

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January 02, 2020 at 04:59AM
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Make meals a thing - Albany Times Union
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